China - Changes to the Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics and Approved NCI
The China NMPA (National Medicinal Products Association) announced changes to the STSC (Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics) on 30th October 2024, to enter into force on 1st July 2025. The changes involve amendments and additions to testing methods.
On 4th November 2024, the NMPA approved the first registered whitening agent NCI (New Cosmetic Ingredient) since the implementation of CSAR (Cosmetic Supervision and Administration Regulation) in 2021 - Isobutylamido Thiazolyl Resorcinol. Whitening agents are classified as high-risk NCIs under CSAR and thus require registration and approval by the NMPA.
On 1st November 2024, the NMPA also implemented the finalised version of the Administrative Measures on Cosmetic Inspection.
You can find the NMPA notice for Testing Methods here, the notice on Isobutylamido Thiazolyl Resorcinol here, and the announcement on the Administrative Measures on Cosmetic Inspection here.
Washington - Toxic-Free Cosmetics Act
PCPC (Personal Care Products Council) continued its talks with the Washington DoE (Department of Energy) over the 1 ppm lead limit in the Toxic-Free Cosmetics Act, ‘TFCA’ (effective 1st January 2025). PCPC and member company representatives presented issues with compliance with the lead limit. Numerous stakeholders have been urging the DoE to raise the lead limit or practise enforcement discretion. Though lead is not intentionally added to cosmetics, it can be naturally present in some raw materials.
PCPC advises companies to immediately schedule individual meetings with the DoE to share any challenges they face with complying with the TFCA.
You can find the DoE TFCA webpage here.
GB - OPSS Call for Data on Cosmetic Ingredient Safety - Prostaglandins, Alpha and Beta Arbutin and Vitamin A
On 24th October 2024, the OPSS (Office for Product Safety Standards) issued a call for data on the safety of a number of cosmetic ingredients, with a deadline of 30th April 2025. Data is requested on Prostaglandins and their analogues (commonly used in eyelash and eyebrow growth serums), Alpha and Beta Arbutin and Vitamin A.
You can find the call for data here.
GB - SAG-CS Opinions Roundup
On 24 October 2024, SAG-CS (Scientific Advisory Group on Chemical Safety) issued the following opinions.
Octocrylene considered safe for use as a UV filter at a maximum concentration of 10%.
Benzophenone-3 considered acceptable as a UV filter in cosmetic products up to a maximum concentration of 6% when used in face cream, hand cream and lip products. However members commented the ingredient does not meet acceptable safety margins when used as a UV filter in cosmetic products up to a maximum concentration of 6% when applied to the full body.
Dihydroxyacetone considered acceptable for use by adults at the maximum concentrations below, as single application methods or in an aggregate scenario:
- Leave on self-tan (lotion and non-aerosol spray) - 14%
- Leave on self-tan (spray booth weekly application) - 14%
- Rinse-off self-tan (rinse-off lotion) - 22.5%
- Non-oxidative hair colourant (leave-on) - 6.25%
EU - SCCS Opinions Roundup
On 25 October 2024, the SCCS (Scientific Committee for Consumer Safety) published a number of opinions on cosmetic ingredients.
Acetylated Vetiver Oil (with 1% alpha-tocopherol), as a fragrance ingredient in spray applications, considered safe regarding inhalation toxicity, when used at the intended maximum concentrations of 0.9% (w/w) in fragrance pump sprays, 0.05% (w/w) in deodorant sprays and 0.1% (w/w) in hairsprays and body lotion sprays.
Hexyl Salicylate considered safe for children up to 3 years old when used up to the maximum concentrations of 0.1 % (w/w) for shower gel, hand soap, shampoo, hair conditioner, body lotion, face cream, hand cream, lipstick/lip balm, fragrance products and 0.001% (w/w) for toothpaste. However, the SCCS expressed concerns over potentially increased dermal uptake in infants with damaged skin and possible trace Salicylic Acid presence.
HC Yellow No. 16 considered safe when used as an ingredient at 1% in oxidative hair dye and at 1.5% in non-oxidative hair dye formulations, based on supplementary information received on the purity of the ingredient previously requested in a 2016 Opinion.
The SCCS could not form a conclusion on the safety of Titanium Dioxide (nano form) coated with a combination of w/w 6% Aluminium Hydroxide, 14% Sodium Myristoyl Sarcosinate and 10% Dimethicone for use as UV filter in dermally applied cosmetic products due to uncertainties and data gaps on the ingredient.
Biphenyl-2-ol and Sodium 2-biphenylolate considered safe as a cosmetic preservative at the below maximum concentrations, per ingredient or cumulatively:
- 0.15% in leave-on cosmetic products.
- 0.2% in rinse-off cosmetic products.
